Royal Barges Museum

Thursday, May 15, 2008 – 8:45 pm

Having barged my way through the slums of Bangkok to reach the Royal Barges Museum, i’m treated to a spectacle of a finely decorated behemoths.

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In olden times, rivers and canals being the primary means of transportation, the King possessed perhaps hundreds of barges for various uses. In present days, barely a few remain for ceremonical occasions like the Royal Barge Procession (Kathin ceremony) which are conducted sparingly.

Housed inside a high-roofed dry dock with little illumination other than natural lighting were a precise collection of four Royal Barges, four Escort Barges, few relics and displays of barge formation miniatures and photo gallery.

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The Royal Barge Suphannahongse was impressive and indeed resembles a Golden Swan as its name stands for. Its the famous personal barge of the King who is seated in the central pavilion with the royal family and rowed by 50 paddlers and assortment of other crew. During processions, a crystal ball which is preserved separately is decorated to it to dangle from its mouth. Being the most majestic, its carved out of a single large teak tree and was awarded as a Maritime World Heritage.

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The most visually striking of all was the Royal Barge Anantanagaraj graced with a seven-headed Nagaraj (Snake King) in its bow and green-coloured hull. It was the personal barge of King Rama IV.

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The Majestic Royal Barge Anekcharphutchong with a pink-coloured(!!) hull was my favourite. Eventhough it has no distinct figure-head like the other royal barges, it has numerous intricate Naga (Snake) figures carved on its bow.

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The Royal Barge Narai Song Suban H.M King Rama IX was the latest addition built during the reign of the present King to commemorate his 50th anniversary of accession to the throne.

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King Narai riding on a Garuda, the mythical bird and royal emblem of thailand.

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The Bows of all Royal barges were richly decorated with golden motifs of mythical creatures and patterns, coloured glass and layers of golden laquer; their hulls painted outside in bright red, green or pink for distinct identification and almost always painted in red in their insides. Finest examples of exquisite Thai craftsmanship!!

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Get closer to any Royal barge, you can see the intricate work like this one on RB Anekcharphutchong…

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The raised golden pavilion of RB Anantanagaraj

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Thats all the Royal barges, lets see a few escort barges now…

Ekachai-class escort barge with a golden painting of a half-naga, half-dragon with its tall horn as the bow. It was used to tow the RB Suphannahongse when more power is needed or during strong currents. All escort barges except this one were equipped with cannons.

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Krut Hern Het, an escort barge with Garuda figurehead

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Asura Vayuphak, an escort barge with Asura (ogre) figurehead

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After the visit, i had only one little grievance, obviously these fine decorated barges are meant to be thrown into the waters!! Anyway the relief was they were used rarely and for the moment, all are perched safely at berths raised above the water level.

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